In celebration of our summer theme, Playtime Fest, press play on “Waters of March” as you read this article!

For several seasons now, we’ve invited the French stylist Marie Malissen to bring to life the fashion trend spaces at Playtime Paris. The forecasting agency Future Snoops outlines the key trends exclusively for Playtime, and then Marie carefully selects pieces from exhibitors that perfectly capture their mood, prints, color palettes, and silhouettes to build magnificent, authentic buying guides in the heart of the show.

We wanted to learn more about Marie’s history as a stylist and what drew her into the universe of children’s fashion, so we sat down with her to ask a few questions. Put on your best look and step into the shoes of this outstanding stylist as we speak with the one and only Marie Malissen!

Marie Malissen, photo by Camille Malissen

Hi Marie! Can you please introduce yourself and tell us a bit about your career path?

Hello, my name is Marie Malissen! Following my studies in art, I began my career as an assistant at the fashion magazine Marie Claire bis and at the design house Maison Martin Margiela. They were two very different universes, but both were highly creative and offered a lot of freedom! I continued in these two experiences for several season, during which I learned a lot.

I spent some time in London working for Marie Claire England. After that, my life as a freelance stylist started when I returned to Paris in 1994. I spent 20 years working with Cosmopolitan, Dépêche Mode, and Marie Claire, as well as on advertising projects, catalogs, and numerous trips…

When I became a mother, I entered the children’s fashion industry. I started working with MilK Magazine, Bubble Mag, and Doolittle, before a next step that lead me to still lifes. I have also worked as the head costume designer on both short and feature-length films.

What an amazing journey so far! What about styling and the fashion industry particularly interested you?

I grew up in an artistic family environment that allowed me to learn about that world from a young age. There were plenty of exhibitions, books, and photographs on the subject.

While I was working at Maison Martin Margiela in the 90’s, I saw a new vision of fashion, the Belgian school, and that’s where I found myself. Recycling, oversized silhouettes, painted jeans, and white… His recycled artisanal collection used gloves and scarves to create new pieces. I was already interested by this universe within the fashion industry that was a bit different.

Styling by Marie, photo by Camille Malissen

What an incredible experience! How do you decide to work on different types of projects?

Over the years, meeting people has brought me new opportunities. First as a women’s stylist, and then in the children’s universe and still lifes. Across all types of projects, there is a lot of preparation. I work with the photographer and artistic director, do research, go shopping, select clothes and objects. There is a lot of research into location, casting, hair, and makeup as well. It’s like bringing together the right pieces of a puzzle.

The approach is never the same. The human factor needs to be understood for fashion photoshoots, where the objects themselves are supposed to go together but can sometimes be difficult to pair!

That being said, I love all types of projects! All of them are about teamwork, and about working together to find the right balance.

Styling by Marie, photo by Camille Malissen for Shopping on France Soir

What is it like working with kids on photoshoots? What are some of your favorite things about working with them?

Children are magical, and so full of energy. One needs to listen to them, to take breaks, work quickly, and have fun with them. It’s up to us, the adults, to adapt to their rhythm and their age so that the photoshoot goes well, and so that it stays fun and not restrictive.

The best is when they love the clothes they’re wearing and don’t want to give them up at the end of the day! I try to respect the spirit of children as much as possible. I don’t like images where they seem like miniature adults.

What are some of your favorite projects you’ve worked on?

I have been lucky enough to travel to places like Arizona, Iceland, Kenya, and Mexico, to name just a few. These moments have been incredible. Images that come to life by chance meetings on the street… getting up at dawn and rushing to arrive before the sunrise… long, intense days that feel truly free.

Those sound like amazing moments! How would you explain the importance of fashion styling?

I think that it’s a question of elegance, balance, and proportions, and that it has to reflect the individual’s personality.

Are there any misconceptions people have about styling?

That people can’t wear certain pieces past a certain age! Nothing is forbidden.

Marie’s styling, Nathalie Lété photographed by Céline Saby for Blumenhaus

How has your visual eye evolved over time?

It’s changed thanks to all these meetings, travels, exchanges, and my inspirations. I’m sensitive to all the little details that surround me. I make ceramics, I love thrifting. I love the stories that come with objects, clothing, it’s about all of it.

What is your vision of the fashion industry today?

The fashion industry is a major source of pollution. Fast fashion and overconsumption are disastrous for our planet. I’m a big fan of vintage – I still have clothing I wore when I was 20 years old! My belief is that it’s important to consume less, but better.

I value quality, the idea that you can keep a sweater for a lifetime. My mother kept clothing from my and my sister’s childhood that I then passed on to my daughters and my nieces.

What are some of your favorite brands right now?

For children’s fashion, I love brands that mix innovation and creativity like Maduko, Goldie + Ace, Bobo Choses, and Favorite People.

As for womenswear, I love the elegance and balanced details from Chistophe Lemaire, the colors and prints from Marni (with their first Meryll Rogge collection for AW26), the timeless clothing from Agnès b, and I always love the workwear from La Blouse de Lyon and finding vintage pieces.

You’ve been working with us for several seasons now. What drew you to this project? What is your creative process for styling the fashion trend spaces at Playtime Paris?

Working with the Playtime team is very enriching. It’s a new challenge each season! I create the looks with Julie Miel. Together we mix the colors, silhouettes, and prints so that they come to life in line with the two seasonal trends and harmonize with the work of the invited artists.

I’ve been coming to Playtime’s events since its creation by Hortensia de Hutten and her children to discover new collections from brands. Gaiety, joy, lightness… it’s a breath of fresh air!

We love working with you too, and can’t wait to see the spaces come to life tomorrow! What are some other exciting projects we can look forward to this year?

I have just wrapped up some work for the art and botanical magazine Blumenhaus that will be released after the August holidays. There is another project centered around dance that will be available in a few months. And, as always, there is my passion for flea markets, objects, vintage, and new connections.

Marie’s styling, photo by Raquel Chicheri for Doolittle

Thank you so much to Marie Malissen for taking the time to share her story and perspective with us! Each member and profession of the children’s fashion industry comes together to create this incredible market. None of it would work without each and every one of us.

Brands, buyers, and the press can discover the stunning fashion trend spaces she’ll bring to life at Playtime Paris June 27-29 – click here if you haven’t gotten your pass yet!

All images courtesy of Marie Malissen, header image by Raquel Chicheri for Doolittle